Places

Jaisalmer

A small ridge, long views, and very little that needs doing.

Open Himalayan view from a ridge

We stayed in Jaisalmer for six days, long enough to move beyond the usual fort-and-desert itinerary and experience the place at our own pace. Our stay was a tiny three-room homestay perched on top of Jaisalmer Fort, with a terrace overlooking the golden city and the desert beyond. Mornings often began with the view, and sometimes with a kite flying from the rooftop.

We ventured out to the border, explored places that rarely make it onto the usual tourist circuit, and spent a night deep in the desert after a one-hour camel ride. There was no resort around us, just a simple camp, an open sky and an extraordinary spread of stars. It was 30 December, and the desert was surprisingly cold through the night.

For us, Jaisalmer wasn’t about ticking off attractions. Six days gave us enough time to slow down, wander, sit, look around and let the desert become more than just a backdrop.